![]() I can never tell exactly what tint each shot will be until I scan it – each frame is different. This has the advantage of adding a unique subtle tint to each shot, normally slightly pink or brown. The scanner then knows that it has to subtract the orange mask from the result. I scan as colour negative, just as I would if the film had been developed “properly”. If you scan as B&W you’ll get some results, but they might be affected by the orange mask. ![]() Unlike B&W or slide film, colour negative film has an orange tint to the base. Once developed, you then need to scan your negs. Final rinse: A drop of Photoflo in distilled / deionised water to reduce drying spots.Rinse: either 10 minutes in running water, or use the Ilford method.Develop: 15 minutes in APH09 or Rodinal 1:50 at 20C.For 120 film, it’s 10ml of APH09 in 500ml of water. I use 6ml of APH09 and make it up to 300ml with water to process one 35mm film in my Paterson tank. For Rodinal-based developers, this is 15 minutes when using a 1:50 concentration at 20C. A good rule of thumb is to use the same development time as Kodak Tri-X in the developer of your choice. All colour negative film has the same development time, regardless of ISO, so it doesn’t matter what film you’re using. If these stabilzers are heavily used and the formalin level drops through use, bugs can also grow.There are lots of articles here and elsewhere on basic B&W development, so I won’t repeat them here in detail, but you’ll need to know the development times for C41 film. "Bugs" can even grow in C41 and E6 formalin stabilzers if the stabilzer is kept long enough to allow evaporation of formalin to cause the level to fall below the critical level to kill or retard bug growth. I just know that they can grow in the diluted working solution of any wetting agent. I also believe that the concentrate has enough anti-bug character that the bugs don't grow there, but I have no proof. I believe that this can only happen in diluted solution though due to carry in of 'bugs' from tap water, or from handling. You can see the growth as either thin threads of matter or slug like 'floaters' in the photo flo solution. This is true of any surfactant and should be watched for. They will burst, spread and vanish.Īs for keeping. I can give a short list here if anyone is interested, but I don't recommend them, as the photoflo will do the job (or any equivalent nonionic surfactant will do) even with the bubbles. There are low foam wetting agents available if you wish. Please watch out for them for the reason I gave above. Some other wetting agents sold for photography are ionic. This is another strike against using soaps or detergents as wetting agents and the reason why Kodak went to a nonionic surfactant in the current Photo Flo. Looking again at using soaps, I must add that soaps are ionic surfactants and can react in water with high calcium content to form scum. The presence of thiocyanate in the Sistan would make it very useful to use at the lowest possible dilution. It is good that there is a wetting agent in Sistan. Tom Lehrers "Periodic Table" was quite poetic as was his "Eternal Triangle" (I've forgotten the correct name of that latter song sung to a Liszt Rhapsody). Gee David, I thought some organic nomenclature was quite poetic and that some poetry was trash. I have not looked at Sistan data or MSDS for a year or so. If dilute enough, there would be no problem at all. Since Sistan contains a thiocyanate salt, I would personally want to rinse it before drying to prevent crystals from forming if nothing else. I was not aware that Sistan had any surfactant in it, and I also thought that it was recommended that the print be rinsed after use of Sistan. There are many substitutes for photo flo out there. Then your film or paper can stick together in humid weather. The disadvantage to using soaps is that they contain dyes and fragrances which can color or leave oily droplets on film and paper. The one other ingredient is a poly alcohol, also readily available. You can probably order it through the Formulary. Triton X 100 is a non-ionic surfactant that is readily available. The formula for Photo Flo 200 is in the MSDS.
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